Jacket Evaluation: Real McCoy's (Japan) Stagg B-10

(Filed: 20 November 2000)

[Back to Jacket Evaluation Directory]

Maker: The Real McCoy's (Japan)jacket

Model: B-10 by Stagg Coat Co.

Size: 42

Date of manufacture: November 1999

Date of evaluation: 18 November 2000


Photos posted below.

Introductory Notes

Because I do not have an original B-10 on hand for comparison, this evaluation will primarily be a descriptive one and not a rigorous examination of authenticity. Some comparisons to originals will be made with the help of photo references.

Fit/cut/proportion

This jacket is labeled as size 42 and the sleeves have been shortened by about 1-1/2 inches in a post-purchase alteration. For fit reference, I am 5'10", 180 lbs, wear a size 42 suit jacket off the rack, and take a 34" shirt sleeve. This size 42 fits closely and, while it does not feel tight, I would have only a little room for layering. The shoulders square up nicely but they are the only place I might feel even the slightest tension.

Sleeve length as altered is very good for me, with the ends of the knit cuffs coming right to the break in my wrist. The jacket is sufficiently flexible that the cuffs do not pull up my arm except with the most severe arm extension. This is a very nice difference from a leather jacket in that there is essentially no resistance to motion.

The jacket is constructed in much the same way as an A-2, but has an internal wind flap under the zipper and incorporates gussets under the arms to facilitate movement. Otherwise, the body is of three panels (left front, right front, back) and the sleeves are also of two longitudinal panels. The outside pockets are external patch pockets with buttoned flaps, and there is an internal pocket as well.

The look of the jacket as worn appears very authentic in cut and proportion to original B-10 jackets. Only the pockets perhaps look to be slightly large for the jacket.

As would be expected for a cloth jacket, this one is very comfortable to wear. And the alpaca lining, while not at all thick, does seem to be very warm.

Shell

The shell is cotton in an oxford or canvas type weave. This, among two or three different weaves originally used, is typical of B-10 jackets. The color is a medium dark O.D. green, although it was difficult to capture this consistently in the photographs. Shades of green on original B-10's varied over a range of light to dark O.D. depending upon the maker or contract. The weight and feel of the material seems consistent with originals.

Lining

The lining, as per original spec, is alpaca. The height of the pile is in the range of 1/4 to 3/8 inches. The color of the lining is essentially gray, but it has a slight purple cast to it. Overall, the appearance of the lining is consistent with photos of originals.

Underarm gussets are sewn into the lining to mirror those of the shell. The material on these inside gussets is a dark green and it seems to be made of satin rayon.

Knits

The wool knits for the waist and cuffs appear typical in form and size compared to originals, and are a muted dark green color. The waist knit is long compared to an A-2, measuring at 4 inches, but this is not unusual for B-10's.

Zipper

The zipper is a nickel Talon reproduction with the later unmarked bar on the puller and the early deco Talon marked stopper box. This is an unusual combination compared to original Talons seen on jackets. It may also be the case that Talon zips are not correct for this Stagg jacket. A small number of photos of originals indicate brass Conmar zips with the bell-shaped, round holed pullers. The most recent McCoy's Stagg B-10 is made with a brass Conmar reproduction zipper, but with the long style puller having an oval hole. The zipper tape is a light O.D. herringbone twill, and the bottom of the tape is folded over and glued.

Buttons

Light green plastic buttons are used for the outside pockets and on the collar for the throat clasp. The buttons measure just under 3/4 inch in diameter.

Throat clasp

A throat clasp is attached for closing the collar around the neck. The shape of this clasp appears similar to that on original Stagg B-10's.

Stitching

The thread used is a light O.D., appearing to be cotton, and is sewn at 10 stitches per inch in most places. The reinforcement stitching around the jacket just above the waist knit looks to be about double the stitch count.

Top stitching placement from seam

Seams are top stitched at 3/16 to 1/4 inches from the seam joint.

Collar

The collar facing is a nappy mouton of a light to medium brown color. If the color in the photos below appear reddish, that is entirely an artifact of the image reproduction. The pile runs about 1/2 inch high. The width of the collar is about 3-3/4 inches and has a rounded corner without an extended point.

Epaulets

Epaulets are not found on all B-10 jackets, but are provided with this model. These epaulets measure 6-1/4 inches from the pointed tip to the shoulder attachment.

Wind flap

The wind flap measures 15 inches long, with a width which varies from 3-1/4 inches at the top to 3 inches at the bottom. The size and shape of the wind flap appears consistent with a photo of an original Stagg B-10.

Sleeves

The sleeves on this jacket have been shortened after purchase by about 1-1/2 inches. Typically the sleeves would have top-stitching around the end just above the attachment to the knit, but this was omitted during the alteration. Underarm gussets are used to facilitate motion.

Pockets

The two patch style pockets are lined on the patch portion by the same satin rayon used for the interior underarm gussets. Each pocket measures 7-1/4 inches wide by 9 inches high, including the flap. Compared to photos of originals, these pockets appear a little large, and it seems to be mostly in the height dimension. The scalloped curves on the pocket flaps is one shape often seen on original B-10's and is consistent with the Stagg jackets. The patch pockets are placed very low, almost down to the waist knits, and the medial edges of the pockets are essentially in vertical alignment with the lateral edges of the tabs flanking the bottom of the zipper. This placement is seen to vary quite a bit on original jackets.

In the medial side of the wearer's left pocket is a pencil slot. This slot is between the patch and the lining so it does not reduce the inside capacity of the pocket. There is no entry to the pencil slot through the pocket flap as seen in some other configurations.

The double line of stitches around the the pockets runs about 1/4 inch in spacing. This, along with the beveled corners of the pockets, are representative of B-10's.

An inside map pocket with a snap closure is found on the wearer's left side of the jacket. This pocket is lined with a thin, loose weave blanket wool. Sewn inside this pocket is a woven label reading, "Reproduced by The Real McCoy's."

Hanger loop

The hanger loop has vertical bar tacking on each end and is sewn through the lining only.

Spec label

The label, as is typical of McCoy's, is an outstanding and very authentic reproduction of the Stagg label, from the off-white panel and dark brown threads to the style and sizes of the letters and numerals. The stock number, which is size specific, is correct for this size 42. The label is sewn through the lining only.

Insignia stamp/transfer

The AAF shoulder insignia transfer is very authentic but is a little small in some respects. The diameter measures out to be 2-3/8 inches, whereas it should be 2-1/2 inches per specification. The length of the text "Army Air Forces" is also just a bit short compared to original spec. A photo comparison with an original is shown below. There are feather details within the wings, but they are very faint, as is typical of originals, and are not seen well in the photos.

Summary and overall impression

This B-10 reproduction from The Real McCoy's Japan is a well-constructed and comfortable jacket which appears to have a high degree of authenticity, at least on a gross examination.

For more information

Real McCoy's Japan is no longer in business.

See the Real McCoy's New Zealand Web site at www.realmccoys.co.nz

Click on a photo for an enlarged view.
Click on the links for related images.
front
Front
Back Windflap
label
Label

neck 1
Neck
Neck Back Left Right
epaulet
Epaulet down/up
pocket
Right Pocket
pocket
Left Pocket
zip
Zip
AAF
AAF transfer
as worn
As worn

Additional images


[Back to Jacket Evaluation Directory]

Copyright © 2000 Marc D. Weinshenker. All rights reserved.